worm castings

Starting Your Own Online Worm Farm Business

I am getting more and more phone calls and emails asking me how one can start their own online worm business.

First off, let me tell you right out of the starting gate, having your own successful worm farm is a lot of work! Some folks have the impression it is easy and not very time consuming. I personally work online and offline about 70 to 80 hours a week. Now this can be started as a part time business, however to have a larger farm does require attention to detail daily!

Is it worth it? Yes, in fact most others I have helped have the same enthusiasm I have and the more you learn about worms the more you want to learn!

Others ask why I would help others compete with myself. Simple answer is the fact that there is plenty of room for reputable worm farmers online as well as competition is healthy for any business!

To get online is actually easier and more economical than many believe. You need not know any programming, HTML but rather point and click and upload your own images if you choose if you know where to go.

The first item is selecting a domain name. I recommend you select something utilizing keywords such as “red wigglers” or “worms” in the domain name you choose for search engine optimization if you are looking to get into the worm business. If you are looking into another business, look for keywords to include in your domain associated with such.

I even know of some people that register their own names or family names and post family photos… to share with friends and family around the globe.

The site we register our domain names as well as use their shopping cart for our customer’s security is Order Your Domain, which offers the lowest prices and best products. The best domain extension to register is a .COM however I do personally own a couple .INFO and .NET extensions

Next you need to be able to build a website, which is where WebSite Tonight comes into play. You can actually have your web site up and running within a matter of an hour or so. They offer loads of templates to choose from, allow you to enter your own text and images to personalize your web site.

Lastly you need a secure shopping cart. The one I actually switched to and still use for Organic Worm Farm after trying others that the emails got hacked from the database is Quick Shopping Cart. Again it is simple to setup and use while insuring the security of your customers.

Lastly, if you do not already have a PayPal account, you can set one up for free so as to accept credit cards and PayPal payments as well as accept checks or money orders.

These are the basic affordable tools you need to get yourself up and running online in your own worm farm or other business.

Don’t forget to order worms in bulk to save money to begin raising them while having enough on hand to start selling some off at a profit!

Bruce

Order Your Domain Registrations & Web Hosting

Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth for Worm Bin Pest Control

I spent the past month trying different remedies for getting rid of fungus gnats in the worm bins in one building from cinnamon, coffee grinds, Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth and more. Let me start at the beginning.

Last month I ordered some worms from a competitor which I do regularly to see what the competition has to offer. I even have my own network of secret shoppers which help me hide my identity.

What this competitor did was send me a bonus for free. Turns out the worm bedding they were shipped in contained loads of fungus gnat eggs. Unbeknownst to me, I added them to one of my beds. Within a couple days the fungus gnats began to flourish. Within a week or so they were out of control in one of my buildings.

Do not worry; we did not sell from this building!

This started my mission of trying to eliminate them as well as see what would work not just on the gnats but mites as well.

I began using some methods others state on their web sites that work effectively. Below are some of the methods which did not work and the one method that did work to assist you from using some remedies suggested by others that can be and are fatal to your worms!

First I tried apple cider vinegar mixed with water in a jar. I sat one on the window sill where I would see some fungus gnats as well as one in the worm bin. After two weeks this caught a total of 2 fungus gnats on the window sill.

I tried attaching fly paper to 2 popsicle sticks to stretch it out and placing in a worm bin adjusting it to rest just above the bedding material.  This was effective in catching some of the adults but was not going to eliminate the problem since it did not have an effect on the eggs and larvae.

Others state to vacuum them out of your worm bin daily. I tried this and perhaps my shop vac is too strong(felt like Tim “The Tool Man” Taylor – more power…) as I was careful but every so often the end of the hose got to close to the bedding and would suck up a chunk of bedding along with worms. This does help but by the next day the numbers were back because the vacuum does not handle the eggs and larvae unless you suck up all the bedding and worms.

Next I tried cinnamon which others claim will work since it can be used as a natural pest control. This is one that I recommend you avoid. It did scatter the gnats but did not kill them. A little later they would return. Once the cinnamon was watered in, worms began trying to escape from both the bottom and the top of the worm bin. The worms that ran through the watered down cinnamon died within hours. This remedy actually created the most worm loss of any.

Another trick stated on some web sites is to use coffee grounds. I was skeptical of this one for if you save any coffee grinds and they remain damp they will attract gnats within a number of days. At this point I had nothing to lose but some time so I tried it. When applying they scattered but returned only to enjoy the environment more. Hence there was not effect on the fungus gnats other than feeding them more food!

For mites I read in a natural remedy book I have to use onion, chives or garlic to chase the mites away. I placed some fresh cut chives from the garden into the worm bin and left it over night. The next morning, the chives were had about 50 mites on them. There were still plenty of them in the worm bin though. In effect the remedy worked to the opposite of what the book stated. I even went back to read it again to be sure I read it right.

Next I decided to try “Food Grade” Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.). Now I mention food grade as there are two main types of D.E., food grade and pool filter grade. The pool filter grade is harmful not only to humans and pets if inhaled, digested… but will kill off your worms.

Now as for the food grade, there are actually a number of different grades as well as some are more pure than others depending on where they are mined.  I actually purchased from two companies, Perma-Guard and the AFA Codex food grade. After checking on the mineral analysis from each web site, I found that the AFA Codex was more pure as well had a more neutral pH hence not messing with your worm bin pH level.

AFA Codex food grade Diatomaceous Earth are fossilized freshwater seashells which are mined from the earth and ground to a flour type consistency. The way the product works is it acts like shredded glass to pests. They walk or crawl through it and get cut, allowing the Diatomaceous Earth to enter the wounds and dehydrate them.

It is safe to humans and can even be used in the vegetable garden the same day you pick your crops. As always it is a good idea to wash any vegetables whether from your own garden or produce section of your local store.

I performed an original dusting and followed up with a second dusting about three days later. The mites have dwindled way down in numbers. The fungus gnats seem to have been eradicated after about one week from the initial dusting.

The worms have not been affected by the applications of the AFA Codex food grade D.E. I went one step further on the second application which is not recommended by applying some of the dust directly on some African nightcrawlers on the top of a couple bins. To my amazement, the worms are still alive and were not affected by the direct contact to the Diatomaceous Earth. My theory to this is perhaps when they burrowed back down they were able to cleanse themselves hence removing the dust.

Food Grade D.E. is all natural and is effective on

Adult Flea Beetles, Ants, Aphids, Bedbugs, Cabbage Root Flies; Carrot Root Flies, Cockroaches, Coddling moths, Earwigs, Fleas, Fungus gnats, Mites, Pillbugs, Sawfly, Silverfish, Slugs, Snails, Thrips, Ticks, Twig borers & More….

So there you have it. The one product that is all natural and effective on numerous pests in a worm bin and around the home. It can be used as a preventative as well as handle existing pest problems.

Be sure NOT to purchase pool filter grade D.E. Also be sure to get a better quality Diatomaceous Earth since it is mined from different parts of the country, some containing many impurities. You can always purchase some of the AFA Codex food grade Diatomaceous Earth from Organic Worm Farm. They offer re-bagged 8oz. for use on one or a few worm bins or 2lb bags for larger worm farms, use in the yard and garden since they purchase in large quantities…

Organic Worm Farm Offered By The Worm Expert

Homemade Flow Through Worm Bin Update 1

It has been a week and a half since I built the flow through worm bin and placed 1 pound of red wigglers into it.  I placed a pound and a half of food in there which is just about gone. Hence under the correct conditions, one pound of red wigglers can eat approximately one pound of food scraps per week.

You can read the original article which includes directions on building this flow through worm bin.

Enjoy the video below.

Bruce

14 Day Worm Castings

How to Build A Flow Through Worm Bin

This past weekend I decided to try something since I had the materials lying around to build a continuous flow worm bin system which in reality can be purchased for less than forty dollars.

continuous flow through worm bin

I had seen a similar concept using metal rods as well as had the bottom left wide open, allowing for variety of varmints to enter the system. I decided to build it keeping it simple so as about anyone could put it together.

One thing to keep in mind is many web sites state that the end product is worm castings in a continuous flow through system. The reality is that the end result is a vermicompost, a mix of some unfinished decaying organic matter and worm castings. While the worm castings by themselves are considered “Black Gold”, the vermicompost will do very well in many garden plants too or simply screen the mixture.

Many ask if you will lose many worms out of the bottom, no worries here. As with anything you will lose a few stragglers however the worms are consistently migrating upwards and should reproduce much quicker than your few lost worms coming through the bottom when you harvest your vermicompost.

Materials / Tools:

1 – 55 Gallon drum (one not previously used for chemicals)

1 – 2’ X 2’ piece of 3/8” plywood if your bin has not lid

4 – strips of 3/8* plywood or less, can be from lid scrap above.

1 – 12” X 8” – 1/8” or ¼” galvanized hardware cloth

4 – Short wood screws ~ ¾” to 1”

40’ – Weed whacker line

1 – Piece of approx. 80 grit sandpaper

1 – Reciprocating saw

1 – Phillips or flat head screwdriver… depending on your screws.

1 – Cutting tool for the galvanized hardware cloth.

1 – tape measure.

1 – drill

1 – 1/8” drill bit

The first thing to do is mark out a 12” wide  by 8” high opening on the bottom, 2 inches from the bottom of the drum.

Next center and mark out another opening 10” wide by 6” high inside the one you just made.

how to build a continuous flow through worm bin

Cut out the smaller opening first as this will make it much easier. Once you cut the outer opening, save this piece.

flow through worm bin

I ran the weed whacker line from side to side as I noticed the structural strength was weekend from front to back once the opening on the bottom was cut. Hence locate and center mark your two sides two inches above the top of your cut opening on the bottom of the drum.

Now you will want to drill holes 1 1/2” on center. This does not mean going around the exterior and measuring 1 ½” all around as this will mess you up.

The simplest way to figure this task out is to drill your two centered side holes, measure 1 ½” to either side and drill those two out. Temporarily run the weed whacker line through all three holes on both sides, back and forth and snug up a little. Now you can reach inside and lay the tape measure over the three lines you ran and mark out 1 ½” in both directions on both sides of the bin. Be sure your marks are level before proceeding to drill them out. You can use your tape measure or if you have scrap wood around, use a precut piece as a template to the height from the bottom of the drum to the height of the holes to be drilled.

To run the weed whacker line tie a large knot on one end of the line and begin threading the line back and forth, starting at either the front or back of the drum. Once ran, proceed to reach inside the drum and start by pulling and placing tension on the lines to snug up, beginning where you first began to thread the line. Once complete, tie another knot on the other end to secure the tension on the weed whacker line and cut off excess.

continuous flow through worm bin

Now you can cut your lid for the drum if your drum did not come with one out of the 3/8” plywood. Be sure to leave it a little larger than the drum top to over hang a little to prevent rain… from getting in should you be placing outside.

Under the lid, Drill 1/8” holes around the top of the drum spaced about 1 ½” apart.

You should have enough scrap from the plywood lid to cut four strips. Cut four pieces six inches long, two at 1 ½” wide and two at 2” wide.

Use the sandpaper to sand the edges of your fron lower door panel to remove the burs left behind when cutting the door.

Trim the galvanized hardware cloth to fit by being a little smaller than the outer edge of the saved piece from your bottom opening cut. Use the wider strips on the front and the narrower strips on the back of each side to hold the galvanized hardware cloth in place, securing with the four screws. Line them up with the inside edge of the opening so as they over hand on the outer side, one by ½” the other by 1”. Always place the galvanized hardware cloth on over the face which will be facing outwards towards you when fitted into place.

Always start off the flow through system with six pieces of newspaper, add 4” to 6” pre soaked sphagnum peat moss (damp, not soaking wet) on top and begin adding food scraps.

To help maintain the pH level is to layer your green (i.e. vegetable scraps) and brown (i.e. shredded newspaper, cardboard) as well as add ground eggshells when available in moderation.

After two or three months, use a garden claw to lightly rake the underside of the weed whacker line from side to side to remove the finished vermicompost. This can then be performed weekly if the system is setup and functioning correctly.

Bruce

Organic Worm Farm Offered By The Worm Expert

Beneficial Growth Using Organic Worm Castings Fertilizer

I originally wanted to run a test and had posted the three planters I started with using different soil makeup’s, one being worm castings however due to a hail storm most of the plants were destroyed. Hence I decided to grow new seed eventually, sowing some of them in organic worm castings while others directly in the soil in my garden.

I also needed a way to grow some barley grain quickly each week for one of the worms we raise. I tried using soil which did alright however I went to plan “B” shortly thereafter realizing I needed a quick turnaround growing the barley to 6 inches tall. I did some reading on hydroponics however the startup costs were a bit high, especially for the amount of space which would be required for the tanks, pump equipment… for the amount of grain I needed to grow. I then decided to try growing the barley grain directly in well watered worm castings. The results were staggering to say the least.

I used the granular type of worm castings which are produced on the Organic Worm Farm. This enabled a type of blend between traditional planting and hydroponics since there was some water held between the worm casting granular. I use some starter trays with clear lids to help maintain the moisture until they grow tall enough in approximately 4 days time.

The seeds began to germinate in two days. After just three days most all the seed had germinated. Within the next four days, the barley grain had grown to about six inches tall.

The pictures below show the grain just 7 days after planting the seeds.

barley grain in worm castings

The next shows the extensive root growth taking place in the seedlings, something worm castings are known for.

barley grain root growth in worm castings

Now back to the tomato experiment.

As for the tomato plants, these results are also amazing as they were all planted in the same soil with the exception of the addition of worm castings to some. They all receive the same amount of sunlight, water… in the garden.

To date not only are the tomato plants in the worm castings taller as well as bushier but they are also producing more tomatoes than the plants without the worm castings.

Measurement Without Worm Castings With Worm Castings
Height (inches) 17.5 23.5
Width (inches) 8 15.75
# Of Tomatoes 1 14

The benefits of worm castings are clearly noted here as well as how to produce more vegetables, flowers… per each plant.

The pictures below display the actual differences. Notice the wire tie for the plants and how the one without worm castings (first picture) only rises to the third wire while the one with worm castings rises to the fourth wire, 6 inches higher.

tomato plant without worm castings

tomato plant with worm castings

To produce these type of worm castings we use, be sure to visit 14 Day Worm Castings for more information and take advantage of the Father’s Day Special Promotion!

How to produce Worm Castings in two weeks