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	<title>Worm Composting &#187; Compost</title>
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	<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com</link>
	<description>Helpful information on worm composting and vermiculture.</description>
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		<title>Bokashi Composting For Worm Food Part 2</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/compost/bokashi-composting-for-worm-food-part-2/</link>
		<comments>http://wormcompostingblog.com/compost/bokashi-composting-for-worm-food-part-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 20:48:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bokashi]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bokashi Composting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Purina Worm Chow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rabbit manure]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[worm composting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[worm food]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=363</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>After making some worm food using a Bokashi method, I was actually disappointed The initial results looked promising however as each passing day went by the results began to take a turn for the worse. For anyone that missed the original article you can find it here, Bokashi Composting for Worm Food Part 1.</p> <p>I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After making some worm food using a Bokashi method, I was actually disappointed <img src='http://wormcompostingblog.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif' alt=':-(' class='wp-smiley' />  The initial results looked promising however as each passing day went by the results began to take a turn for the worse. For anyone that missed the original article you can find it here, <a title="Bokashi Worm Food" href="http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/bokashi-composting-for-worm-food/" target="_blank">Bokashi Composting for Worm Food Part 1</a>.</p>
<p>I do believe that perhaps using a pinch of bokashi in the initial bedding setup may help to setup a better environment after all a well balanced garden soil has both, beneficial aerobic and anaerobic microbes.</p>
<p>After allowing the Bokashi to sit in an anaerobic environment for 4 weeks, the smell was right on and all looked well. I made two batches, one out of just shredded rabbit manure and the other out of Purina Worm Chow. Rather than dig a hole and place outside for several more weeks allowing the possible contamination of pests which I did not want since I was using for worm food, I proceeded to dry it quickly in shallow layers in flat bins.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">
<div id="attachment_365" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 497px"><a href="http://wormcompostingblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/bokashi-worm-chow.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-365" title="bokashi-worm-chow" src="http://wormcompostingblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/bokashi-worm-chow.jpg" alt="" width="487" height="357" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Purina Worm Chow Bokashi</p></div>
<div id="attachment_366" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 505px"><a href="http://wormcompostingblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/bokashi-rabbit-manure.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-366" title="bokashi-rabbit-manure" src="http://wormcompostingblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/bokashi-rabbit-manure.jpg" alt="" width="495" height="344" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Shredded Rabbit Manure Bokashi</p></div>
<p>I first proceeded to feed it directly to the worms which they devoured overnight, the next feeding took two days, and the following took about four days for the worms to consume.</p>
<p>So next I went to plan “B” which was to break down the amount of Bokashi used to feed the worms by adding 5 parts Purina Worm Chow, Dolomite lime (since I knew the Bokashi was on the acidic side), Diatomaceous Earth and some dried shredded rabbit manure to 1 part Bokashi.</p>
<p>Once again the worms began to devour the food and slow down day by day on the amount consumed. After a total of two weeks I had lost just a couple worms from various species The worms had just about all but stopped eating the material. I could actually see the loss of weight in the European nightcrawlers and African nightcrawlers.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">
<div id="attachment_367" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 521px"><a href="http://wormcompostingblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/bokashi-uneaten-food.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-367" title="bokashi-uneaten-food" src="http://wormcompostingblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/bokashi-uneaten-food.jpg" alt="" width="511" height="383" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Uneaten Worm Food</p></div>
<p>I thought breaking the material down would help; however I can feed the same species of worms just a straight diet of <a href="http://www.orderworms.com/Purina-Worm-Chow_c9.htm?sourceCode=WCB" target="_blank">Purina Worm Chow</a> every day for the life of the worms with no issues as well as good growth rates. This is not to say that I am not trying different feed sources and am back to one I have been using with a twist. Rather than make a wet mixture which breaks down over time, I am trying the same mix which is made and stored dry with good results thus far!</p>
<p>In short, I found the Bokashi the way I made it, to be a waste of time and effort as a worm food source. As for using in the garden, this could be an entirely different result as I have not done so to date. Also, not to discourage others wanting to try composting using the Bokashi method to avoid the stench of a compost pile, I find by burying vegetable scraps… in a worm bin to be more effective means for composting on smaller scales. On a larger scale this can be accomplished with worm composting using a continuous flow worm bin and layering your materials, greens (vegetable scraps) always followed by browns (shredded newspaper, cardboard and even coffee grounds).</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ORDERWORMS.COM/?sourceCode=WCB" target="_blank"><img src="http://organicwormfarm.com/affiliates/banners/img/image13.gif?group_id=1&#038;banner_id=14&#038;aff_id=1&#038;testmode=1" border="0" alt="Organic Worm Farm"</a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Building A Compost Pile To Recycle Yard Waste</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/compost/building-a-compost-pile-to-recycle-yard-waste/</link>
		<comments>http://wormcompostingblog.com/compost/building-a-compost-pile-to-recycle-yard-waste/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 24 Nov 2010 16:17:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[carbon footprint]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[compost bins]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[composting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[composting leaves]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[composting waste]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[humus]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic matter]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recycling]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recycling waste]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[yard waste]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=218</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Height of the compost pile is important in order to generate enough heat as well as maintain it to break down the organic materials to be composted.  [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Every year most folks dread the idea of cleaning up the leaves in their yards. I on the other hand do not mind as not only do I use some of the composted material in my garden but also save hundreds of dollars by using the compost for bedding material for some of my worm beds. With more and more people each year looking to decrease their carbon footprint I decided to show you how to build and benefit from a composting pile rather than just burning your leaves!</p>
<p>While the use of a compost tumbler is fine for many purposes, it is not needed nor would it fit all the material I collect from the yard this time of year. Besides for many people the cost of purchasing a compost tumbler to use once a year may not be worth it. Do not get me wrong, a compost tumbler for an avid gardener can be a great tool to have in ones arsenal. The main thing to keep in mind is the height of the pile or windrow. I started my compost pile at four and a half feet high.  Height is important in order to generate enough heat as well as maintain it to break down the organic materials. From here I will now build on it to form a windrow but decided to build a pile to start with as most people do not have the amount of material that falls on our property to build a windrow.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img class="aligncenter" src="http://WormCompostingBlog.com/images/compost_leaf_pile_3.jpg" border="0" alt="leaf compost pile" /></p>
<p>In order to make the compost pile more effective I did a couple things. First, being the smaller the particles the more surface area made available to aerobic microbes which assist in the breakdown of the organic matter, I mulched the material into finer particles.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Here is a pile of leaves prior to mulching using a mulching lawn mower I purchased several years ago for this purpose.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img class="aligncenter" src="http://WormCompostingBlog.com/images/compost_leaf_pile_1.jpg" border="0" alt="composting leaves" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Here is the same pile of leaves after being mulched</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img class="aligncenter" src="http://WormCompostingBlog.com/images/compost_leaf_pile_2.jpg" border="0" alt="mulched leaves" /></p>
<p>Secondly, to help speed things up, I used worm castings being they are already full of beneficial aerobic microbes. This enables them to get right to work rather than waiting for them to develop within the pile before they can assist in breaking down the compost pile.</p>
<p><a title="Worm Castings" href="http://www.ORDERWORMS.COM/Worm-Castings_c10.htm?sourceCode=WormCompostingBlog" target="_blank">Worm castings</a> were simply sprinkled over the compost pile in between layers added. I also moistened down each layer of the compost pile after adding the worm castings.</p>
<p>While we had a cool rain yesterday afternoon and evening and a cool 41 degrees Fahrenheit this morning the internal temperature of the composting material just 24 hours after piling up the material was already at 107 degrees Fahrenheit.  Keep in mind while the temperature is climbing rapidly, I still want it to raise it approximately 60 degrees more.</p>
<table width="90%" align="center">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width="50%"><img class="aligncenter" src="http://WormCompostingBlog.com/images/compost_leaf_pile_4.jpg" border="0" alt="ambient temperature" /></td>
<td width="10"></td>
<td style="text-align: center;"><img class="aligncenter" src="http://WormCompostingBlog.com/images/compost_leaf_pile_6.jpg" border="0" alt="internal temperature of composting material" /></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p>The only thing left which can be controversial is whether to turn the pile (hot composting) or to leave it alone (cold composting). Hot composting piles should be turned just as the internal temperature begins to drop, usually at least once or twice a week. This process helps to keep the pile oxygenated which utilizes aerobic microbes. This is the method I prefer as it is quicker, can kill off seeds in the pile by basically cooking them and does not have an odor.</p>
<p>Cold composting on the other hand is a much slower process, usually will enable any seeds in the pile to germinate in the spring time and does generate an odor being the compost is broken down by anaerobic microbes. Anaerobic microbes in some instances such as found in swamps are known to cause sickness and diseases. Anaerobic microbes are not beneficial to garden areas or worm bedding, hence why I personally prefer hot composting with beneficial aerobic microbes.</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://14DayWormCastings.com/?id=WCBlogLeafCompost" target="_blank"><img src="http://organicwormfarm.com/affiliates/banners/img/image15.gif" alt="14 Day Worm Castings" /></a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Benefiting With The Addition Of Red Worms To Your Compost Pile</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/compost/benefiting-with-the-addition-of-red-worms-to-your-compost-pile/</link>
		<comments>http://wormcompostingblog.com/compost/benefiting-with-the-addition-of-red-worms-to-your-compost-pile/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 17 Oct 2010 19:16:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[African nightcrawlers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Alabama jumpers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[composting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[European nightcrawlers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[red wigglers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[red worms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vermicast]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vermicomposting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[worm castings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[worm composting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[worm poop]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=208</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The one area many people are unaware of is that by introducing red worms and even some nightcrawlers better known as worm composting or vermicomposting, can assist and be even more beneficial than traditional composting. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The earliest documentation known concerning <strong><em>composting</em></strong> dates back to <em>23 – 79 A.D.</em> written by a man known as <em>Pliny the Elder</em>. The basic concept was to allow the material to stand for a year until the following planting season.  There were issues as they did not bother to turn it, hence increasing the likely hood of malicious anaerobic microbes to flourish, enabling the pile to be contaminated by unwanted seeds and the possibility of the nutrients leaching from the pile.</p>
<p>It was not until the earlier part of the 1900’s that composting began to evolve.</p>
<p>Today, tens of thousands of regular folks are taking part in composting via a tumbler or compost pile they manually turn periodically utilizing aerobic microbes to assist in the breakdown of organic matter.</p>
<p>The one area many people are unaware of is that by introducing red worms and even some nightcrawlers better known as <strong>worm composting</strong> or <strong>vermicomposting</strong>, can assist and be even more beneficial than traditional composting.</p>
<p>First, rather than having to turn the pile, the red worms are constantly eating organic matter moving through the pile. This aids in the aeration of the system which can save you time and your back!</p>
<p>Secondly red worms can speed the process of breaking down your compost pile allowing you to benefit faster from your (or should I say your worms) efforts.</p>
<p>Lastly, without getting all scientific here, worms have another benefit when they produce worm castings also known as worm poop and vermicast. The worm castings contain additional beneficial bacteria which are in the worm’s digestive system. Even though there is little known to how exactly worm castings work, test have shown that plants that are introduced to soil containing worm castings grow faster, produce more fruit, vegetables and flowers as well are less susceptible to soil born diseases.</p>
<p>One item that stands out with the addition of worm castings is the superior root growth over those without. This may even help to explain some of the results from the tests performed on plants using worm castings in the soil mix since a healthier root system usually means a healthier plant.</p>
<p>Now there are over 2,200 species known to man so how does one select the right worm for the job?</p>
<p>There are four basic worms that can be used depending mostly on your local climate conditions. One of the most popular known are the <strong><em>red wigglers</em></strong>. It is a smaller worm which can tolerate cooler temperatures as low as about 50 degrees and fair alright in warmer temperature upwards of 90 degrees or so Fahrenheit. When I discuss temperatures I am not referring to the ambient temperature but rather the temperatures within the compost pile itself.</p>
<p>Another worm would be the <strong><em>European nightcrawlers</em></strong> which are not really a nightcrawler… more on this topic can be found <a title="red wigglers versus european nightcrawlers" href="http://wormcompostingblog.com/red-worms/relationship-between-red-wigglers-and-european-nightcrawlers/" target="_blank">here</a> (opens in a new window). This worm can tolerate the cooler temperatures of around mid forties however does not fare well above 85 degrees and extreme humidity. This worm is also referred to as a trout worm and leaf worm.</p>
<p><strong><em>Alabama Jumpers</em></strong> are probably one of the most versatile worms as it originated in the tropics of some Asian countries and can be found as far north as northern New England. Alabama Jumpers actually fall under the earthworm category since they can burrow well beneath the surface which also helps aerate the soil around plants deeper than most other worms. This worm can tolerate very warm conditions and will become sluggish in the mid fifties. Now one unique trait of some earthworms is to be able to survive very low temperatures by basically burrowing down beneath the surface and going into a process similar to hibernation. To read more on this worm, visit the <a title="Alabama Jumpers" href="http://alabamajumpers.com/" target="_blank">Alabama Jumpers Blog</a>.</p>
<p>For very warm climates year round <strong><em>African nightcrawlers</em></strong> will do the trick. Yes, this worm originated in Africa and can tolerate up to 110 degrees in the shade as long as it has circulating air. If temperatures within the compost pile fall below 60 degrees the worms will begin to die off.</p>
<p>One thing to keep in mind, should temperatures fall to cool and kill off the worms, if they have laid cocoons (worm eggs) they will hatch come the spring even if they freeze.</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
<p></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.OrderWorms.com/?sourceCode=WormCompostingBlog" target="_blank"><img class="aligncenter" src="http://organicwormfarm.com/affiliates/banners/img/image1.gif?group_id=1&amp;banner_id=1&amp;aff_id=18" border="0" alt="Composting Worms from Organic Worm Farm" width="468" height="60" /></a></p>
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		<title>Worm Composting</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/compost/worm-composting/</link>
		<comments>http://wormcompostingblog.com/compost/worm-composting/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:28:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[composting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[worm castings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[worm compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[worm composting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=96</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Deciding to start your own worm composting bin, also known as vermicomposting, is rather simple to setup and maintain if done correctly. You will need to make a choice of which red worm you want to use for composting as there are a several to choose from, each with its own characteristics. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Deciding to start your own <span style="text-decoration: underline;">worm composting</span> bin, <em>also known as vermicomposting</em>, is rather simple to setup and maintain if done correctly. You will need to make a choice of which red worm you want to use for composting as there are a several to choose from, each with its own characteristics. Below is some basic information to assist you in choosing the correct composting worm for your own personal needs.</p>
<p><strong>Red Wiggler Worms</strong> <em>- Great If Primary Purpose Is Composting</em>.</p>
<p>Red wigglers, also known as red wriggler worms, are said by many to be the best composting worm. Realistically they are very prolific and are easy to raise in a bin since they will basically take to their new environment right from the start where as your nightcrawlers usually try to wander more until they settle in.</p>
<p>The red wiggler prefers temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit and is the smallest of the compost worms. They will eat your basic vegetable and fruit scraps turning it into &#8220;Black Gold&#8221; or worm castings. They will survive well in simple bedding made of shredded cardboard and newspapers.</p>
<p><strong>African Nightcrawlers</strong> &#8211; <em>Great Worm If Primary Purpose Is For Both Composting And / Or Fishing</em>.</p>
<p>These are a superior worm with a dual purpose. They not only eat more than the other red worms but also make an excellent fishing worm growing to lengths of 8 to 10 inches long. They are very prolific and one of the hardiest worms to raise.</p>
<p>African Nightcrawlers worm castings are different looking as well as feeling than other red worms. The castings are darker yet lighter and fluffier. There is no difference in the worm castings when it comes to microorganism&#8217;s growth or PH levels.</p>
<p>The African Nightcrawler is more heat tolerant and prefers temperatures between 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. They will eat your basic vegetable and fruit scraps turning it into &#8220;Black Gold&#8221; or worm castings. They will survive well in simple bedding made of shredded cardboard and newspapers.</p>
<p><strong>European Nightcrawlers</strong> <em>- Great For Those Who&#8217;s Primary Purpose Is Fishing</em>.</p>
<p>This is one of the favorites of fishermen. They also do a good job composting your scraps; however they are not as good as the Red Wiggler or African Nightcrawlers.</p>
<p>These nightcrawlers grow to about 3 to 4 inches in length and can tolerate cooler water temperatures. The European Nightcrawler is also the only red worm which can survive a while being fished in brackish water which also classifies them as a hardy worm to raise.</p>
<p>European Nightcrawlers prefer a temperature range of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They will eat your basic vegetable and fruit scraps turning it into &#8220;Black Gold&#8221; or worm castings. They will survive well in simple bedding made of shredded cardboard and newspapers.</p>
<p><strong>Alabama Jumpers</strong> <em>- Great For Fishing &amp; Yard&#8230; Garden Composting.</em></p>
<p>The Alabama Jumper is a unique composting worm being it does not do well raised in bins however prefers clay and sandy soils due to the tougher skin they have. This enables them to borough through hard packed clay without a problem.</p>
<p>They do not eat vegetable scraps but rather carbon based products, i.e. hay, shredded cardboard, leaves&#8230; Alabama Jumpers live up to its name by wiggling so quickly and violently it will actually leap out of your hand. With this type of action, think about what it will do when placed in front of a fish.</p>
<p>Alabama Jumpers will migrate eventually throughout your yard and or garden areas, leaving worm castings towards the surface. They will not harm plants or their roots however will aerate the soil.</p>
<p>Alabama Jumpers can tolerate as far north as Tennessee. When the colder weather comes, they will borough below the frost levels&#8230; These are a very easy worm to raise since they have minimal needs.</p>
<p>There you have it, the basic information needed when selecting &#8220;<strong>composting worms</strong>&#8221; which will work best for you!</p>
<p>Bruce Galle also known as <strong>&#8220;<em>The Worm Expert</em>&#8220;</strong> has been involved with Vermicomposting and assisting others over the years. Bruce is also the founder of <a title="Organic Worm Farm Composting" href="http://organicwormfarm.com/store" target="_blank">Organic Worm Farm</a>, where he personally raises and sells several worm species for composting and fishing: <a href="http://OrganicWormFarm.com/store" target="_blank">http://OrganicWormFarm.com/store</a></p>
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