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	<title>Comments for Worm Composting</title>
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	<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com</link>
	<description>Home of Organic Worm Farm. Worm composting, red wriggler worms, worm bins, raising red worms and more.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:44:45 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Comment on Homemade Worm Bin Heater by Bruce</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/worm-compost-bins/homemade-worm-bin-heater/comment-page-1/#comment-366</link>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Mar 2010 00:44:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=104#comment-366</guid>
		<description>Michael

Well there are some variables that come into play such as how cold the area you live in gets during the winter... Where the worm bin is stored.... But basically it was designed to handle an 18 gallon Rubbermaid style bin but could go larger under some adjustments in some areas. For example by building a box to house the 5 gallon bucket and insulate it to enable it to hold a more constant temperature while heating the temperature higher...

Another nice feature I have not touched on is the summer time. One could remove the heating element, bury the five gallon bucket up to a few inches from the top of it and run cool water to help keep the worm bin cooler during the hotter months. One thing to consider is that while using for cooling there will proabably be more condensation build up withing the worm bin.

Bruce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Michael</p>
<p>Well there are some variables that come into play such as how cold the area you live in gets during the winter&#8230; Where the worm bin is stored&#8230;. But basically it was designed to handle an 18 gallon Rubbermaid style bin but could go larger under some adjustments in some areas. For example by building a box to house the 5 gallon bucket and insulate it to enable it to hold a more constant temperature while heating the temperature higher&#8230;</p>
<p>Another nice feature I have not touched on is the summer time. One could remove the heating element, bury the five gallon bucket up to a few inches from the top of it and run cool water to help keep the worm bin cooler during the hotter months. One thing to consider is that while using for cooling there will proabably be more condensation build up withing the worm bin.</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
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		<title>Comment on Homemade Worm Bin Heater by Michael</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/worm-compost-bins/homemade-worm-bin-heater/comment-page-1/#comment-365</link>
		<dc:creator>Michael</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 22:08:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=104#comment-365</guid>
		<description>Very interesting. This looks like a great idea.  How big of a compost bin should this handle?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Very interesting. This looks like a great idea.  How big of a compost bin should this handle?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Raising African Nightcrawlers And The Effects Of Temperatures by Bruce</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/nightcrawlers/raising-african-nightcrawlers-and-the-effects-of-temperatures/comment-page-1/#comment-364</link>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 13:28:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=125#comment-364</guid>
		<description>Gloria,

Welcome and congratulations on joining the rest of us wormaholics :-)

The amount of red wigglers to buy depends on your needs and more importantly the size of your worm bin and amount of food you wish to feed them. A law of averages is one pound of worms to one square foot of surface area. If using a 15 - 18 gallon Rubbermaid style worm bin, then one pound would do for most people, giving ample room for them to reproduce for you.

another way to figure out worms is one pound of red wigglers will eat half a pound of decayed food scraps per day. Now I mention decayed as first the worms need to settle into their new environment, hence they will eat less so do not add as much food and secondly they will not be able to eat raw food scraps until they begin to decompose. So once the system is set in motion then you can figure on the half pound of food scraps per one pound of red wigglers per day.

Bruce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Gloria,</p>
<p>Welcome and congratulations on joining the rest of us wormaholics <img src='http://wormcompostingblog.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>The amount of red wigglers to buy depends on your needs and more importantly the size of your worm bin and amount of food you wish to feed them. A law of averages is one pound of worms to one square foot of surface area. If using a 15 &#8211; 18 gallon Rubbermaid style worm bin, then one pound would do for most people, giving ample room for them to reproduce for you.</p>
<p>another way to figure out worms is one pound of red wigglers will eat half a pound of decayed food scraps per day. Now I mention decayed as first the worms need to settle into their new environment, hence they will eat less so do not add as much food and secondly they will not be able to eat raw food scraps until they begin to decompose. So once the system is set in motion then you can figure on the half pound of food scraps per one pound of red wigglers per day.</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on What A Worm Egg Looks Like – Worm Cocoon by Bruce</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-363</link>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 13:21:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-363</guid>
		<description>Craig

I have heard that red wigglers can live up to ten years. I personally have not tagged one with a radio transmitter to follow... :-)

From experience I would have to say anywhere from one year to three years can be expected after the worm grows to full size under the right conditions. Take for example African nightcrawlers would be total life expectancy of 2 to 4 years since the worms we sell take 8 months to reach a size of 6 to 8 inches in length, and will grow some more given enough time. I have had African nightcrawlers as long as ten inches plus without being stretched out.

As for thinning worms, the best and easiest approach is to keep them thinned out. Simply screen your bedding every two weeks if a large system or perhaps once a month for a 18 gallon size worm bin for cocoons. Use some of the original bedding material for your cocoons to hatch in and allow them to grow. Wait about 4 months to screen the new bin of cocoons which gives the red wigglers enough time to grow, mature and begin producing cocoons.

Again this differs with different types of worms. African nightcrawlers do not mature until about five months old, hence you would allow this bin to sit for six months or so before screening the hatched cocoons again.

Bruce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Craig</p>
<p>I have heard that red wigglers can live up to ten years. I personally have not tagged one with a radio transmitter to follow&#8230; <img src='http://wormcompostingblog.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>From experience I would have to say anywhere from one year to three years can be expected after the worm grows to full size under the right conditions. Take for example African nightcrawlers would be total life expectancy of 2 to 4 years since the worms we sell take 8 months to reach a size of 6 to 8 inches in length, and will grow some more given enough time. I have had African nightcrawlers as long as ten inches plus without being stretched out.</p>
<p>As for thinning worms, the best and easiest approach is to keep them thinned out. Simply screen your bedding every two weeks if a large system or perhaps once a month for a 18 gallon size worm bin for cocoons. Use some of the original bedding material for your cocoons to hatch in and allow them to grow. Wait about 4 months to screen the new bin of cocoons which gives the red wigglers enough time to grow, mature and begin producing cocoons.</p>
<p>Again this differs with different types of worms. African nightcrawlers do not mature until about five months old, hence you would allow this bin to sit for six months or so before screening the hatched cocoons again.</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
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		<title>Comment on Tap Water And Worms Don’t Always Mix by Bruce</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/uncategorized/tap-water-and-worms-don%e2%80%99t-always-mix/comment-page-1/#comment-362</link>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 13:06:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=132#comment-362</guid>
		<description>Ron

Boiling the water will not remove the chlorine however I do believe you are fine by adding the coffee grinds directly as long as in moderation or by drying them out in the sun first... As much as red wigglers like coffee grinds, you ever notice when first added the worms usually do not take to it? If so then the chlorine level maybe to high. Otherwise the coffee might have some effect in helping to remove or reduce the chlorine levels enough...

Stick to what works. If your worms take to it, continue what you are doing.

Bruce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ron</p>
<p>Boiling the water will not remove the chlorine however I do believe you are fine by adding the coffee grinds directly as long as in moderation or by drying them out in the sun first&#8230; As much as red wigglers like coffee grinds, you ever notice when first added the worms usually do not take to it? If so then the chlorine level maybe to high. Otherwise the coffee might have some effect in helping to remove or reduce the chlorine levels enough&#8230;</p>
<p>Stick to what works. If your worms take to it, continue what you are doing.</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Tap Water And Worms Don’t Always Mix by Bruce</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/uncategorized/tap-water-and-worms-don%e2%80%99t-always-mix/comment-page-1/#comment-361</link>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 13:02:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=132#comment-361</guid>
		<description>John

Did not think about this but yes if adding salt and chlorine for softening water. I would check on a water purifier that can remove the salt if using this in your system as it can build up over time and hence dry out and kill your worms. The sun&#039;s UV will not help to remove the salt content, as holds tru in the oceans around the globe.

Great question... thanks

Bruce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>John</p>
<p>Did not think about this but yes if adding salt and chlorine for softening water. I would check on a water purifier that can remove the salt if using this in your system as it can build up over time and hence dry out and kill your worms. The sun&#8217;s UV will not help to remove the salt content, as holds tru in the oceans around the globe.</p>
<p>Great question&#8230; thanks</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Raising African Nightcrawlers And The Effects Of Temperatures by Bruce</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/nightcrawlers/raising-african-nightcrawlers-and-the-effects-of-temperatures/comment-page-1/#comment-360</link>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 12:59:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=125#comment-360</guid>
		<description>Tyson

Thanks for the compliment...

Have a great day!

Bruce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tyson</p>
<p>Thanks for the compliment&#8230;</p>
<p>Have a great day!</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
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		<title>Comment on Tap Water And Worms Don’t Always Mix by Ron K</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/uncategorized/tap-water-and-worms-don%e2%80%99t-always-mix/comment-page-1/#comment-359</link>
		<dc:creator>Ron K</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 12:54:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=132#comment-359</guid>
		<description>Hello Bruce,
 What can you do about the coffee grounds and filters the have been used with tap water?Are they safe for the worms since it&#039;s been boiled? Should they be rinsed in chlorine free water first?
Ron K</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Bruce,<br />
 What can you do about the coffee grounds and filters the have been used with tap water?Are they safe for the worms since it&#8217;s been boiled? Should they be rinsed in chlorine free water first?<br />
Ron K</p>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on Raising African Nightcrawlers And The Effects Of Temperatures by Tyson F. Gautreaux</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/nightcrawlers/raising-african-nightcrawlers-and-the-effects-of-temperatures/comment-page-1/#comment-357</link>
		<dc:creator>Tyson F. Gautreaux</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 05:53:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=125#comment-357</guid>
		<description>Excelente Blog, suas dicas me ajudaram muito.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Excelente Blog, suas dicas me ajudaram muito.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>Comment on What A Worm Egg Looks Like – Worm Cocoon by Craig</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-356</link>
		<dc:creator>Craig</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 03:16:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-356</guid>
		<description>What is the average lifespan of the Red Wigglers?  Should I try and thin out the older worms every so often, so that I don&#039;t have any dying in the vermiculture?  What do you recommend is a good system for thinning out the worm population, so that you keep the entire worm family healthy and happy?  Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What is the average lifespan of the Red Wigglers?  Should I try and thin out the older worms every so often, so that I don&#8217;t have any dying in the vermiculture?  What do you recommend is a good system for thinning out the worm population, so that you keep the entire worm family healthy and happy?  Thanks!</p>
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