I spent the past month trying different remedies for getting rid of fungus gnats in the worm bins in one building from cinnamon, coffee grinds, Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth and more. Let me start at the beginning.
Last month I ordered some worms from a competitor which I do regularly to see what the competition has to offer. I even have my own network of secret shoppers which help me hide my identity.
What this competitor did was send me a bonus for free. Turns out the worm bedding they were shipped in contained loads of fungus gnat eggs. Unbeknownst to me, I added them to one of my beds. Within a couple days the fungus gnats began to flourish. Within a week or so they were out of control in one of my buildings.
Do not worry; we did not sell from this building!
This started my mission of trying to eliminate them as well as see what would work not just on the gnats but mites as well.
I began using some methods others state on their web sites that work effectively. Below are some of the methods which did not work and the one method that did work to assist you from using some remedies suggested by others that can be and are fatal to your worms!
First I tried apple cider vinegar mixed with water in a jar. I sat one on the window sill where I would see some fungus gnats as well as one in the worm bin. After two weeks this caught a total of 2 fungus gnats on the window sill.
I tried attaching fly paper to 2 popsicle sticks to stretch it out and placing in a worm bin adjusting it to rest just above the bedding material. This was effective in catching some of the adults but was not going to eliminate the problem since it did not have an effect on the eggs and larvae.
Others state to vacuum them out of your worm bin daily. I tried this and perhaps my shop vac is too strong(felt like Tim “The Tool Man” Taylor – more power…) as I was careful but every so often the end of the hose got to close to the bedding and would suck up a chunk of bedding along with worms. This does help but by the next day the numbers were back because the vacuum does not handle the eggs and larvae unless you suck up all the bedding and worms.
Next I tried cinnamon which others claim will work since it can be used as a natural pest control. This is one that I recommend you avoid. It did scatter the gnats but did not kill them. A little later they would return. Once the cinnamon was watered in, worms began trying to escape from both the bottom and the top of the worm bin. The worms that ran through the watered down cinnamon died within hours. This remedy actually created the most worm loss of any.
Another trick stated on some web sites is to use coffee grounds. I was skeptical of this one for if you save any coffee grinds and they remain damp they will attract gnats within a number of days. At this point I had nothing to lose but some time so I tried it. When applying they scattered but returned only to enjoy the environment more. Hence there was not effect on the fungus gnats other than feeding them more food!
For mites I read in a natural remedy book I have to use onion, chives or garlic to chase the mites away. I placed some fresh cut chives from the garden into the worm bin and left it over night. The next morning, the chives were had about 50 mites on them. There were still plenty of them in the worm bin though. In effect the remedy worked to the opposite of what the book stated. I even went back to read it again to be sure I read it right.
Next I decided to try “Food Grade” Diatomaceous Earth (D.E.). Now I mention food grade as there are two main types of D.E., food grade and pool filter grade. The pool filter grade is harmful not only to humans and pets if inhaled, digested… but will kill off your worms.
Now as for the food grade, there are actually a number of different grades as well as some are more pure than others depending on where they are mined. I actually purchased from two companies, Perma-Guard and the AFA Codex food grade. After checking on the mineral analysis from each web site, I found that the AFA Codex was more pure as well had a more neutral pH hence not messing with your worm bin pH level.
AFA Codex food grade Diatomaceous Earth are fossilized freshwater seashells which are mined from the earth and ground to a flour type consistency. The way the product works is it acts like shredded glass to pests. They walk or crawl through it and get cut, allowing the Diatomaceous Earth to enter the wounds and dehydrate them.
It is safe to humans and can even be used in the vegetable garden the same day you pick your crops. As always it is a good idea to wash any vegetables whether from your own garden or produce section of your local store.
I performed an original dusting and followed up with a second dusting about three days later. The mites have dwindled way down in numbers. The fungus gnats seem to have been eradicated after about one week from the initial dusting.
The worms have not been affected by the applications of the AFA Codex food grade D.E. I went one step further on the second application which is not recommended by applying some of the dust directly on some African nightcrawlers on the top of a couple bins. To my amazement, the worms are still alive and were not affected by the direct contact to the Diatomaceous Earth. My theory to this is perhaps when they burrowed back down they were able to cleanse themselves hence removing the dust.
Food Grade D.E. is all natural and is effective on
Adult Flea Beetles, Ants, Aphids, Bedbugs, Cabbage Root Flies; Carrot Root Flies, Cockroaches, Coddling moths, Earwigs, Fleas, Fungus gnats, Mites, Pillbugs, Sawfly, Silverfish, Slugs, Snails, Thrips, Ticks, Twig borers & More….
So there you have it. The one product that is all natural and effective on numerous pests in a worm bin and around the home. It can be used as a preventative as well as handle existing pest problems.
Be sure NOT to purchase pool filter grade D.E. Also be sure to get a better quality Diatomaceous Earth since it is mined from different parts of the country, some containing many impurities. You can always purchase some of the AFA Codex food grade Diatomaceous Earth from Organic Worm Farm. They offer re-bagged 8oz. for use on one or a few worm bins or 2lb bags for larger worm farms, use in the yard and garden since they purchase in large quantities…
I’m a smalltime worm farmer and I’ve used the pool grade DE with great results.john
John
I do not recommend this as for a few reasons.
AFA is made from a special grade of diatomite ore which is low in arsenic and other harmful elements. Some other grades have too much arsenic to be safe for use in animal feeds, and are NOT CODEX Food-Grade. D.E. grades designed for swimming pool filters are processed at high temperatures (calcined), and therefore contain crystalline silica, which is not recommended for animal feed.
AFA is a natural fine powder which is safe, non-crystalline silica, and moves easily through the digestive tract. Also diatomaceous earth that is used as an insecticide must be below ten microns in size to be effective, (Katz 1991a: Calvert 1930; Allen 1972). D.E. products with larger particle sizes are not recommended for feed or insecticide use.
Also the guidelines off the label for one of the supposedly safer pool grade bags….
Cover food and water containers when treating around livestock or pet areas. Do not contaminate fish ponds.
Always dispose of empty containers so they pose no threat to humans, animals or wildlife.
Do not spill sprays or dusts on the skin or clothing. If they are spilled, remove contaminated clothing immediately and wash.
If symptoms of illness occur during or shortly after spraying or dusting, contact a physician or go to the hospital. Take the label from the chemical with you.
The food grade is safe as a feed additive. Birds can actually eat insects that are killed by the AFA Codex food grade Diatomaceous Earth with no harm to them!
Again, never use the pool grade as there are other labels concerning damage to humans, pets, water supplies with the pool grade.
Bruce
Bruce
I just purchased some hope it works on my mites, Thanks
Bruce
How much or thick should I apply this food grade DE. I have about 6 55 gallon worm bins. also when working a bin can this be mixed in the bedding or does it need to stay on top? I top feed my worms a wet mix of chicken grain & powered lime to help stop the acid build up.
Bob,
Start with a light coating. I do not recommend mixing in the bedding material. However it can be mixed up to 2% in the feed and then utilized each time you feed the worms as well.
Bruce
Bruce
I will be trying the food grade DE today. I also cover my bins with wet newspaper. The worms seem to realy like that but when dusting the beds should I not cover them with the wet newspaper?
Bob,
Since the worms like the damp newspaper as well as the mites as it begins to break down, go ahead and do a light dusting on top of the newspaper as well.
Bruce
Hey Bruce,
I am having gnat problems as well. It keeps the numbers down when I cover the food with bedding but not on top under the news paper. Going to go see if I can find some DE myself. Thanks again for all the information and all that you do to help us. Also, it would seem that those people who put out disinformation might be doing it to hinder or discourage any competition.
Why else would they put out all things that would hurt worm farmers?
Chuck
Chuck
I have actually been applying this to try and use more as a preventative now by mixing about 2% of the Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth with the Purina Worm Chow prior to feeding the worms.
I believe the reason for all the misinformation on raising worms is not to discourage competition but rather lack of knowledge. Many folks who sell worms do not raise them themselves but rather use a third party drop shipper. Hence they read something online and figure it sounds good, so they go ahead and put it on their own website. Goes back to, and they will tell two friends, and so on.
This is why I experiment on my own to find what works and what does not work. Anyone wishing to try experimentation on their own, I recommend using only a small bin of worms so as not to harm or kill off your stock until the results are in
Bruce
One of the hardest complications that administration businesses encounter is pests infestations. Most buildings have at the very least one unit who declines to allow for pest control specialists inside or refuses to maintain the unit in great sanitary situation. This kind of a single unit can preserve insect contaminations returning back again time and again, pricing condo management time period, labor and money.
hi bruce…did you read this article…it says they use coex food grade de for worming animals and worms in humans…are theese type of worms diferant then ef’s…i’m very carefull when i get horse manure for my ef bins to make sure the horses were not wormed and i still let it sit for over 1 year…please let me know what you think…rock
Rock
If food grade Diatomaceous Earth is used as a dewormer, than this is fine. One would not use pool grade as it would kill the animals. At the same time food grade Diatomaceous Earth used as dewormer in animals will not hurt your fishing and composting worms. The types of worms Diatomaceous Earth will attack in live animals such as horses are different than composting and fishing worms.
Now as far as heating horse manure, this process still needs to be taken or you will bake your worms.
Bruce
Great information, I wondered if lady bugs would eat he mites? I have them in all my bins even though they are in different areas and sealed with screened vents. Worms are laying eggs like mad and very healthy so far. Don’t want it to change
Scott
I deleted you second post as you did not do anything wrong, I just had to get around to approving your first post from a day earlier as it is all done manually
I have not tried to place lady bugs in a worm bin however I would imagine if you got them to stay in there they probably would eat the mites. I myself along with other I am sure would be interested in your results should you test it out.
Thanks
Bruce
got some of these lovely gnats, they have moved in with…. maybe they came with the used worm bin that was inherited. did not know any better, was told, oh that’s nothing they do not do anything.
so…
. and for the adults I have 2 wool blankets, white, these attract breeding guys, I have worm bin covered with then. why? cause I change 2 every day, one goes into the freezer in a bag, another comes out, have to shake frozen gnats.
coffee grounds. they seem to work in the very begging, because one will see less flies est in autumn. but it has nothing to do with coffee. if has to do with cooler weather. so no they did not stop breeding.
watering this stuff with gnatroll works in a way partially. what actually worked better was:
yes, using coffee grounds as a breeding bait. but these were sprinkled with gnatrol, so here they come to breed and here is plenty of food for them. it’s just adjusted
this reduces my gnats population from infestation to 5-6 breeding species on a blanket daily. gnattroll was applied twice. seemed to work so far.
gnatroll took care of gnats in my house plants (just watering), but not in the bin.
if they return I’ll try your method and see if that kills the larvae faster than in 1 week.
Oh the heat!
My worm bins are inside since its so hot here in DC right now and the fungus gnats are making me crazy. I got them after letting my bins get too wet but even after I’ve dried the bins out, I still have the fungus gnats.
How do you apply the diatomaceous earth to a worm bin? Mix it in? Sprinkle on top? How much do you use at each application? How often do you apply?
thanks!
Alice
Alice
You dust the top just do not apply directly on the worms themselves. Best if applied as needed as the worms can eat the Diatomaceous Earth and will be fine. If top feeding your worms with dry food such as Purina Worm Chow, add some directly in with the food. The fungus gnat larvae will consume it and die before converting over to gnats
Bruce
the only thing that worked in the end was beneficial nematodes. no gnats. they have returned after gnatroll treatment in several plants. but nematodes took care of the bin and the plants.
li
Thanks and yes beneficial nematodes can be an effective means of natural pest control for gnats although can get a little expensive. Glad to hear you have it resolved.
Bruce
I bought nematodes on amazon, they did come alive, but the whole thing takes more than 1 week, and I was collecting adults on wool blanket and freezing the blanket, so I had a predator in the bin, that seem to reduce some mites like population too, I guess I have lots of nematodes in the bin and will release that into my raised beds, cause I have rolly-polly bugs there and see if that works. these bugs seem to like seedlings too much.
I’ve got some mites and ants in my bin. Can I use this product for them? Where can I buy this product? How should I use this product?
Mark
Yes you can use the product by both, mixing in with the worm food as well as dust the top of the bedding as long as you do not apply directly to the worms. You can purchase Diatomaceous Earth from Organic Worm Farm if not found locally.