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	<title>Comments on: What A Worm Egg Looks Like – Worm Cocoon</title>
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	<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/</link>
	<description>Home of Organic Worm Farm. Worm composting, red wriggler worms, worm bins, raising red worms and more.</description>
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		<title>By: Craig</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-471</link>
		<dc:creator>Craig</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 May 2010 02:57:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-471</guid>
		<description>Bruce,
Thank you for the information about the red wiggler cocoons and their lifespan.  I started out with about 1,000 red wigglers a year ago and now have probably 3,000 to 4,000 (although I am not really sure).  I have two systems for my worms.  I have a large Rubbermaid plastic storage container that sits on top of a furniture dolly (the dolly is great for moving the worms around within a shed!) and one of those stackable five-tray systems that is in a spare bathroom tub (and yes, my wife did give me permission to have that in there, as long as there was no mess).  Here&#039;s my question, &quot;What is the best way to process and sterilize new dirt for the worms?&quot;  I was thinking of taking regular soil from the ground, and pouring boiiling water over it to (a) kill any &quot;critters&quot; that might be in the soil, and (b) kill any bacteria or germs in the soil.  Good idea or bad?  What do you recommend? 
Thanks!
Craig</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bruce,<br />
Thank you for the information about the red wiggler cocoons and their lifespan.  I started out with about 1,000 red wigglers a year ago and now have probably 3,000 to 4,000 (although I am not really sure).  I have two systems for my worms.  I have a large Rubbermaid plastic storage container that sits on top of a furniture dolly (the dolly is great for moving the worms around within a shed!) and one of those stackable five-tray systems that is in a spare bathroom tub (and yes, my wife did give me permission to have that in there, as long as there was no mess).  Here&#8217;s my question, &#8220;What is the best way to process and sterilize new dirt for the worms?&#8221;  I was thinking of taking regular soil from the ground, and pouring boiiling water over it to (a) kill any &#8220;critters&#8221; that might be in the soil, and (b) kill any bacteria or germs in the soil.  Good idea or bad?  What do you recommend?<br />
Thanks!<br />
Craig</p>
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		<title>By: BILL ELLISOR</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-470</link>
		<dc:creator>BILL ELLISOR</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 May 2010 01:37:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-470</guid>
		<description>i have 5gal buckets outside,worms are coming thru the holes in the bottom.what am i doing wrong.they are leaving my wooden boxes.i have worms all over the yard,where i have shade trees and leaves.i live in hollywood fl,and the soil is sandy,worms are hard to find in the sand.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>i have 5gal buckets outside,worms are coming thru the holes in the bottom.what am i doing wrong.they are leaving my wooden boxes.i have worms all over the yard,where i have shade trees and leaves.i live in hollywood fl,and the soil is sandy,worms are hard to find in the sand.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Bruce</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-465</link>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 20 May 2010 22:23:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-465</guid>
		<description>Jayme

One site that may assist you is http://www.naturewatch.ca/english/wormwatch/about/key/taxonomic.html

Bruce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jayme</p>
<p>One site that may assist you is <a href="http://www.naturewatch.ca/english/wormwatch/about/key/taxonomic.html" rel="nofollow">http://www.naturewatch.ca/english/wormwatch/about/key/taxonomic.html</a></p>
<p>Bruce</p>
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		<title>By: Jayme</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-458</link>
		<dc:creator>Jayme</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 May 2010 15:55:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-458</guid>
		<description>how do i know what kind of worms i have i digged them up</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>how do i know what kind of worms i have i digged them up</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Bruce</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-450</link>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Apr 2010 15:59:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-450</guid>
		<description>Anne

Sorry for the delay here and on all the other threads... been busy working on several items from garden to worms...

The temperature of 70 to 80 degrees would actually be the internal temperature of the worm bed itself and not the external temperature outside. Of course 30 days or so of 100 degrees or so will effect the internal temperature however the shade would help to control it.

In areas where the temperature may become extreme you could also set the large drum partially buried in the ground, two feet or so to help maintain coolness as well as some warmth in the winter where the cold weather is not so extreme.

Bruce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Anne</p>
<p>Sorry for the delay here and on all the other threads&#8230; been busy working on several items from garden to worms&#8230;</p>
<p>The temperature of 70 to 80 degrees would actually be the internal temperature of the worm bed itself and not the external temperature outside. Of course 30 days or so of 100 degrees or so will effect the internal temperature however the shade would help to control it.</p>
<p>In areas where the temperature may become extreme you could also set the large drum partially buried in the ground, two feet or so to help maintain coolness as well as some warmth in the winter where the cold weather is not so extreme.</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
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		<title>By: Anne Gullett</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-393</link>
		<dc:creator>Anne Gullett</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Apr 2010 23:44:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-393</guid>
		<description>I am interested in worm composting but have two questions. First, I have a 55 gallon plastic drum that I use for regular composting. Is this too large to use for worms? Second, I live in Texas and we often have 30+ days of 100 degrees or more. I read that 70-80 degrees is a good temperature for worm composting, but wondered if I gave them a larger, deeper container and kept it in the shade with plenty of ventilation the worms might be okay. I have no problem starting smaller and indoors, but just wondered if you had any insight to my questions.

Thank you for your help!
Anne Gullett
Coppell, Texas</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am interested in worm composting but have two questions. First, I have a 55 gallon plastic drum that I use for regular composting. Is this too large to use for worms? Second, I live in Texas and we often have 30+ days of 100 degrees or more. I read that 70-80 degrees is a good temperature for worm composting, but wondered if I gave them a larger, deeper container and kept it in the shade with plenty of ventilation the worms might be okay. I have no problem starting smaller and indoors, but just wondered if you had any insight to my questions.</p>
<p>Thank you for your help!<br />
Anne Gullett<br />
Coppell, Texas</p>
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		<title>By: Bruce</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-373</link>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 13 Mar 2010 01:53:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-373</guid>
		<description>Bill

Yes they can get too wet... You need them just damp as the bedding you have your worms in. Also try to keep the worm bin at 70 - 75 degrees to help them hatch quicker.

Bruce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bill</p>
<p>Yes they can get too wet&#8230; You need them just damp as the bedding you have your worms in. Also try to keep the worm bin at 70 &#8211; 75 degrees to help them hatch quicker.</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
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		<title>By: BILL ELLISOR</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-369</link>
		<dc:creator>BILL ELLISOR</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 13 Mar 2010 01:27:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-369</guid>
		<description>i wonder if my hatch bucket is to wet.i have it outside now,it has begun to warm up,65/75.degrees.i have baby worms in my wood boxes.tell me if it hurts,for them to be to wet/                                      thanks bill ellisor</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>i wonder if my hatch bucket is to wet.i have it outside now,it has begun to warm up,65/75.degrees.i have baby worms in my wood boxes.tell me if it hurts,for them to be to wet/                                      thanks bill ellisor</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Bruce</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-363</link>
		<dc:creator>Bruce</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 13:21:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-363</guid>
		<description>Craig

I have heard that red wigglers can live up to ten years. I personally have not tagged one with a radio transmitter to follow... :-)

From experience I would have to say anywhere from one year to three years can be expected after the worm grows to full size under the right conditions. Take for example African nightcrawlers would be total life expectancy of 2 to 4 years since the worms we sell take 8 months to reach a size of 6 to 8 inches in length, and will grow some more given enough time. I have had African nightcrawlers as long as ten inches plus without being stretched out.

As for thinning worms, the best and easiest approach is to keep them thinned out. Simply screen your bedding every two weeks if a large system or perhaps once a month for a 18 gallon size worm bin for cocoons. Use some of the original bedding material for your cocoons to hatch in and allow them to grow. Wait about 4 months to screen the new bin of cocoons which gives the red wigglers enough time to grow, mature and begin producing cocoons.

Again this differs with different types of worms. African nightcrawlers do not mature until about five months old, hence you would allow this bin to sit for six months or so before screening the hatched cocoons again.

Bruce</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Craig</p>
<p>I have heard that red wigglers can live up to ten years. I personally have not tagged one with a radio transmitter to follow&#8230; <img src='http://wormcompostingblog.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>From experience I would have to say anywhere from one year to three years can be expected after the worm grows to full size under the right conditions. Take for example African nightcrawlers would be total life expectancy of 2 to 4 years since the worms we sell take 8 months to reach a size of 6 to 8 inches in length, and will grow some more given enough time. I have had African nightcrawlers as long as ten inches plus without being stretched out.</p>
<p>As for thinning worms, the best and easiest approach is to keep them thinned out. Simply screen your bedding every two weeks if a large system or perhaps once a month for a 18 gallon size worm bin for cocoons. Use some of the original bedding material for your cocoons to hatch in and allow them to grow. Wait about 4 months to screen the new bin of cocoons which gives the red wigglers enough time to grow, mature and begin producing cocoons.</p>
<p>Again this differs with different types of worms. African nightcrawlers do not mature until about five months old, hence you would allow this bin to sit for six months or so before screening the hatched cocoons again.</p>
<p>Bruce</p>
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		<title>By: Craig</title>
		<link>http://wormcompostingblog.com/raising-worms/what-a-worm-egg-looks-like-%e2%80%93-worm-cocoon/comment-page-1/#comment-356</link>
		<dc:creator>Craig</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 03:16:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://wormcompostingblog.com/?p=108#comment-356</guid>
		<description>What is the average lifespan of the Red Wigglers?  Should I try and thin out the older worms every so often, so that I don&#039;t have any dying in the vermiculture?  What do you recommend is a good system for thinning out the worm population, so that you keep the entire worm family healthy and happy?  Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What is the average lifespan of the Red Wigglers?  Should I try and thin out the older worms every so often, so that I don&#8217;t have any dying in the vermiculture?  What do you recommend is a good system for thinning out the worm population, so that you keep the entire worm family healthy and happy?  Thanks!</p>
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