Worm Bin Heater Update

Bruce — Tue, 15 Nov 2011 16:58:36 +0000

A couple years ago I wrote an article with pictures showing how you can make a simple worm bin heater. Since many have been asking how to keep their worms warm during the winter I thought now would be a good time to expand on this past article and how I modified a bit to insulate better, hence keeping the worm bin warmer.

The one issue with the worm bin heater in the past was the five gallon bucket containing the fish aquarium heater was not insulated hence a great variation of bedding temperatures. This was due primarily of the aquarium heater running around the clock trying to warm the water.

I have been monitoring the bedding temperatures for the last several weeks as this particular worm bin is located in an uncontrolled, drafty building. During milder temperatures, lows around forty-five or so and the highs in the mid to upper sixties, I have found the bed to maintain right around 64-65 degrees Fahrenheit. During colder weeks down around thirty two degrees and highs around fifty to fifty five, the bedding has been maintaining a temperature right at 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Worm Bin Temperature

I decided to include a few extra pictures for setting up the worm bin heater here, basically not shown in my previous article.

The first issue was to resolve the heater from over working. I thought about wrapping the five gallon bucket in insulation, however if it ever got wet, it would make a soggy mess. I then found a larger bucket which would fit the five gallon bucket easily allowing plenty of room. I proceeded to add a couple inches of dry Sphagnum Peat Moss on the bottom of the larger bucket prior to placing the five gallon bucket inside to help insulate the bottom. Next was to fill and slightly pack dry Sphagnum Peat Moss around the sides of the five gallon bucket to insulate the sides. I then placed a small piece of light wood, also could use plastic to help prevent evaporation through the top hole even though minimal and covered with an old beach towel to help insulate the top of the five gallon bucket.

Next displays how to spread out the worm bin heater hose throughout the bottom of your worm bin. For the sake of showing up in the picture, one would be better adding approximately one inch of bedding material prior to adding the heater hose.

Laying Out the Worm Bin Heater Hose

Next was to cover the worm bin heating hose with approximately six inches of bedding material followed by adding the worms on the surface of the bed.

Worm Bin with Worm Heater

Lastly was to cover while still allowing air to flow to assist in blocking any windy drafts from directly blowing on the worm bed surface area. Note the space allotted so as not to crush the worm bin heater hose as well as allow air flow.

Covered Worm Bin with Worm Heater

Homemade Worm Bin Heater

Bruce — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 00:30:31 +0000

Many people have asked me how to keep their worm bin warm during the winter months which are setup in their garage or basement. So I finally purchased all the material to build a homemade worm bin heating system which can easily be built within an hour or so.

I set this up with an air temperature in the garage of 61 degrees Fahrenheit. Internal bin temperature was 68 degrees.

After running on high for 6 hours, the temperature in the buckets of water was 89 to 90 degrees.

The internal bin temperature had risen to 73 degrees Fahrenheit, a total of 5 degrees Fahrenheit.

The temperature of the exterior sides of the tubing was 78 degrees.

First, the needed supplies are as follows:

1 – 5 Gallon Bucket
1 – 2 Gallon Bucket (Easily fits within the 5 Gallon Bucket)
50 Feet of 3/8 inch flexible tubing.
1 – Fountain Pump (capable of pumping up at least 4 feet) and calls for 3/8 inch tubing
1 – Adjustable Thermostat Aquarium Heater… Submersible Pump Only
2 – Dozen Wire Ties

These materials will run right around $75.00 to purchase.

First, drill a hole through the lid just large enough to pass the thermostat cord through in the center of the lid. You do not want to make this too large as you will lose too much water due to evaporation. Also drill two ¼ inch holes or so next to each other off to one side of the thermostat wire so as to secure the wire with a wire tie later on.

You need to drill two ¾ inch holes near the top of the five gallon bucket to thread your tubing through. Be sure to drill just below your lid once the lid is snapped securely in place. At the same time make a “U” cut in the top rim of the five gallon bucket large enough for your pump electrical wire to lay in. Be sure this also goes low enough that it will not interfere with the lid when you go to snap it down.

Next is to drill holes in the bottom of the 2 gallon bucket. I used a 3/8 inch bit for this.

Next you need to proceed by drilling holes in the side of the 2 gallon bucket making two of them close to the bottom so as to use a wire tie to anchor one end of the 3/8 inch tubing.

Once the holes are drilled you are ready to coil the tubing on the exterior of the 2 gallon bucket. Use a wire tie for the end of the tubing to secure it on the bottom of the 2 gallon bucket. Continue by coiling around the bucket and securing with ties about every three revolutions. You should end up coiling about 25 feet of the tubing around the 2 gallon bucket. Be sure to use a wire tie at the top of the 2 gallon bucket where you finish the coiling.

Take the other end of your tubing and feed it through from the inside of the 5 gallon bucket to the outside. Pull the tubing all through so as to be able to place the 2 gallon bucket inside the 5 gallon bucket.

Now you need to drill two ¾ inch holes near the top of your worm bin so as you can still place your lid on. Run the tubing through one of the holes, from the outside to the inside of your worm bin. Next begin coiling by running back and forth in the bottom of your worm bin. Using wire ties to secure the tubing on the bottom of your bin making use of your aeration holes drilled on the bottom. If needed drill and extra hole here and there to secure on the bottom of the bin.

Run the tubing through the second ¾ inch hole in your worm bin from inside to outside.

Now run the tubing from the outside to the inside of the second ¾ inch hole near the top of your five gallon bucket. Place the pump with suction cups to one side of the 2 gallon bucket, drape the power cord through the “U” slot near the top of the 5 gallon bucket and attach the end of the tube to the pump.

Pull your power cord for the heater through the bottom of the center hole in your 5 gallon bucket lid. Before snapping the lid in place, place on top of the 5 gallon bucket and run a wire tie to support the power cord of the heater so as the heater dangles just about ½ inch above the floor of the 2 gallon bucket.

Photo does not show the tubing ran in the worm bin

Now fill with water and plug the pump in only. Once the tubing fills with water, add additional water to fill the 5 gallon bucket just below the holes drilled for your tubing and pump cord on the side of the five gallon bucket. Be sure the heater is completely submerged under water. Plug heater in and adjust temperature on heater as needed.

Be sure to check the temperature of the worm bin daily and adjust your thermostat as needed. Also be sure to check the water level as the thermostat needs to be submerged under water at all times.

If you have any question, please post them below.

Bruce Galle

Worm Composting » heat worm bin

Worm Bin Heater Update

Homemade Worm Bin Heater