While the use of a compost tumbler is fine for many purposes, it is not needed nor would it fit all the material I collect from the yard this time of year. Besides for many people the cost of purchasing a compost tumbler to use once a year may not be worth it. Do not get me wrong, a compost tumbler for an avid gardener can be a great tool to have in ones arsenal. The main thing to keep in mind is the height of the pile or windrow. I started my compost pile at four and a half feet high.  Height is important in order to generate enough heat as well as maintain it to break down the organic materials. From here I will now build on it to form a windrow but decided to build a pile to start with as most people do not have the amount of material that falls on our property to build a windrow.

In order to make the compost pile more effective I did a couple things. First, being the smaller the particles the more surface area made available to aerobic microbes which assist in the breakdown of the organic matter, I mulched the material into finer particles.

Here is a pile of leaves prior to mulching using a mulching lawn mower I purchased several years ago for this purpose.

Here is the same pile of leaves after being mulched

Secondly, to help speed things up, I used worm castings being they are already full of beneficial aerobic microbes. This enables them to get right to work rather than waiting for them to develop within the pile before they can assist in breaking down the compost pile.

Worm castings were simply sprinkled over the compost pile in between layers added. I also moistened down each layer of the compost pile after adding the worm castings.

While we had a cool rain yesterday afternoon and evening and a cool 41 degrees Fahrenheit this morning the internal temperature of the composting material just 24 hours after piling up the material was already at 107 degrees Fahrenheit.  Keep in mind while the temperature is climbing rapidly, I still want it to raise it approximately 60 degrees more.

The only thing left which can be controversial is whether to turn the pile (hot composting) or to leave it alone (cold composting). Hot composting piles should be turned just as the internal temperature begins to drop, usually at least once or twice a week. This process helps to keep the pile oxygenated which utilizes aerobic microbes. This is the method I prefer as it is quicker, can kill off seeds in the pile by basically cooking them and does not have an odor.

Cold composting on the other hand is a much slower process, usually will enable any seeds in the pile to germinate in the spring time and does generate an odor being the compost is broken down by anaerobic microbes. Anaerobic microbes in some instances such as found in swamps are known to cause sickness and diseases. Anaerobic microbes are not beneficial to garden areas or worm bedding, hence why I personally prefer hot composting with beneficial aerobic microbes.

Bruce

Below is an easy to make organic matter soil recipe, which is superb for planting which is generally an all around soil recipe. This organic matter recipe will give you an enriched soil that will assist in ensuring your flowers bloom more flowers and larger harvest of vegetables and fruits.

50% Peat Moss

Sphagnum moss or sedge is partially decomposed aiding in making compost. Great to add to your mix as it is free from weeds and disease organisms as well as its ability to aid in air and water retention.  Peat moss is an acidic product which can be reduced via addition of lime.

30% Compost

Consist of decomposed and partially decomposed organic matter.  Compost can consist of many different components from grass clippings, leaves… to vegetable scraps… If making your own compost be sure it is PH neutral. Compost also assists in water retention as well as provides nutrients for microorganisms which release nutrients to you plants. Worm Composting is the fastest way to compost and maintain a neutral PH every time.

10% Coarse Sand

Assists in retaining air and water within the soil mix. Be sure to use builders or contractors grade sand which is coarser than play sand and works better.  Usually this can be found in the mortar section of your local building supply store.

10% Worm Castings

Worm castings, not to be confused with vermicompost which is compost with some worm castings included. Worm castings also help in water retention but also contain millions of microorganisms which act as a soil activator. This will help produce and release important nutrients to your plants. You can locate worm castings online.

¼ Cup Bone Meal per 5 Gallon Mix

Bone Meal a number of good nutrients for your plants and is a slow release so as not to harm your plants or plant root systems. Phosphates which promote root growth by enabling the sugars made within the leaves to be transported to the root system. Calcium which is lost during the fall when plants lose their leaves… help to cement cell walls together. Lack of new shoots and weak stems are signs of calcium deficiency. Bone Meal is also a low in nitrogen content meaning it will not burn your plants, convert potential flowers into leaves, hence ruining your flowering display.

1/8 Cup Agricultural Lime per 5 Gallon Mix

Lime helps to reduce the acid in soil levels. Being the Peat Moss is acidic; the lime will help neutralize your soil mix. In the event you wish to use a more acidic soil for tomatoes, azalea bushes… you can omit the lime to this mixture.

Now that you have all your ingredients, I usually grind up the Lime to a powder like substance. This enables better mixing but is not necessary.

Mix the dry Peat Moss, Coarse Sand, Bone Meal and Lime if utilizing the latter. Be sure to mix well.

Next, add the Worm Castings. Once thoroughly mixed add your Compost and mix thoroughly again.

Using a good organic matter soil will ensure you reap the benefits of your labor next spring!

Bruce Galle

The Worm Expert

Follow Me On Twitter