Seasonal changes affect the way one raises their red worms. When winter arrives we concentrate on keeping our red worms warm. It is much easier when raising red worms to keep a worm bin warm than trying to keep it cool enough during the warmer months.

Moving from the summer through fall and into winter is actually easier since even though the temperatures drop, so does humidity. Once summer arrives the humidity rises in most parts of the country which can make your red worm bin become an oven similar to roasting a roast.

Even if you live in areas such as Arizona where the temperatures are hot but the humidity remains low, remember your worm bin has trapped moisture within it, hence creating humidity within the worm environment.

Another reason why it becomes easier to raise red worms during the cooler months is the fact many are composting by throwing in loads of food scraps such as vegetables. This helps to heat up the worm bin which works fine during the winter.

During the transition from winter to spring, things begin to heat up. While adding plenty of nitrogen rich, green products, such as leftover vegetable scraps work well during colder, drier months, this can prove detrimental when transitioning from winter to spring into summer.

Raising red worms and transitioning from winter to spring can be relatively simple if you approach it properly.

Start by making sure your worm bin does not have too much moisture. Moisture and heat do not mix when it comes to raising red worms. A soil moisture meter can be purchased at most hardware, home improvement and even discount stores this time of year. A good year round moisture percentage to maintain is 60% to 70%.

I know many people purchase a worm farm of one sort or another offering a spigot at the bottom by which is advertised to produce worm tea. First, this is not worm tea but rather leachate, which can be anaerobic and detrimental to your worms. Leachate can be full of detrimental anaerobic microbes rather than beneficial aerobic microbes hence why landfills for example need to build retainers to catch the leachate to prevent run off into local soil and drinking wells. If you are producing liquid within your worm bin this time of year as well as during the summer months there is a good chance you will kill off your red worms.

To reduce the heat within your red worm bin, slow down on the green products and begin adding more brown which are carbon products. Carbon products consist of shredded newspaper and cardboard for one. These products will not generate nearly as much heat within your worm bin as green products do. At the same time they do not increase the moisture content but rather absorb it. Green products not only generate heat but also produce moisture content.

Certain vegetables produce more moisture than others. This is a good time of year to avoid melons and vegetables such as cucumbers for a while.

If you are raising red worms in a garage or basement that becomes hot during the summer months, now is the time to start thinking about where you can move them to. Garages that reach even 80 degrees Fahrenheit will end up cooking your worms as the internal temperature of the worm bin will exceed this.

Think of a sauna and how the steam literally heats up within the room and makes you hot. The same holds true when raising red worms within the worm bin and the heat and moisture content builds up within.

If raising your red worms outside, now is the time to find a nice shady spot for them if you have not done so already. Direct sun on the worm bin will bake your worms quickly and leave a foul odor.

Heading these precautions will save you and your red worms much aggravation and are the same guidelines used at Red Worms For Sale worm farm to insure healthy red worms. For additional information on raising red worms, be sure to sign up for the Worm Composting Newsletter!

Hence I went to the drawing board to come up with a solution for my own needs. It is actually a simple device that fits and spins manually in an 18 gallon size Rubbermaid bin. The main unit is built from a five gallon plastic kerosene can.

Keep in mind this worm harvester is for the small worm farmer. It works effectively for one to a number of bins, however once you begin to raise worms on a larger scale, you will want to replace this unit.

I used a stainless steel rod however one could use a short ½” copper pipe. I do recommend sliding end caps on the ends of the pipe so as not to cut oneself when working with the worm harvester. I slid the rod or copper pipe through ¾” PVC fittings on both sides of the bin as well as the five gallon can.

The neat part about this worm harvester is that I use a number of bungee cords to hold the screen in place, enabling myself to start with a 1/8″ screen, then a ¼” screen and finally a ½” screen. This enabled me to separate the worm castings, cocoons and small vermicompost particles effectively.

To work the worm harvester, simply place a small amount of worm compost into the bin, close up the screen opening with two bungee cords and spin the harvester one way then the other way. Once completed, open the screen, remove the left over material and place in a holding bucket or bin. Repeat until you have harvested everything from your bin and proceed to the next screen size and so on…

The other nice feature is when I was done using the harvester; I simply pulled the rod out and wrapped all three screens around the five gallon can, placed back into the bin and placed my lid on top.  Everything but the rod can be stored within the worm harvesting bin

Bruce