Before I begin with the instructions, you can purchase a ready made worm farm from a variety of manufacturers which will run you in the neighborhood of $60.00 to $140.00. I do not offer any of these units as from my own personal experience they are not designed correctly and advertise leachate (runoff from bins that are too wet) as worm tea. Worm tea is usually totally different than the leachate from the type of microbes (aerobic versus anaerobic) in each to the number of microbes…

I spent less than $25.00 for the materials to build this worm farm.

Materials and Tools Needed:

3 – Rubbermaid style bins and lids ( 10 gallon – 18 gallon)

4 –Tupperware style storage containers with lids (approx. 4” tall).

1 – Tape measure or ruler

2-3 Gallon bucket of Sphagnum Peat Moss

1 – Tablespoon of agricultural lime, ground up egg shells or ashes from some hard woods.

5 Gallon Bucket of dry Shredded newspaper and or cardboard.

1 – Drill

1 – 3/16” Drill bit

1 – 1/8” Drill bit

1-2 Pounds or composting worms (preferred worm for this method is the red wiggler)

The first step is to take two of the Rubbermaid style bins and drill holes approximately 3” apart on the entire surface area of the bottom using a 3/16” drill bit. These holes are for aeration and NOT for drainage. As I mentioned earlier, if you are getting liquids draining from your worm bin you are too wet and not only can kill off worms but invite unwanted bugs as well. For the sake of keep this from becoming confusing, I will reference these two Rubbermaid type bins as bin 1 and bin 2

Next you can use the 1/8” drill bit to drill holes around the sides all the way around, towards the top of bin 1 and bin 2, approximately 1” apart. These are additional aeration holes.

Now use the 1/8” drill bit to drill holes in one of the lids of the bins approximately 5” apart on the entire surface area.

Next measure the height of your Tupperware type containers when laid in the third bin (lay in upside down with lids attached to each for stability). For instance, the small storage containers I used in these plans were 4” high. I then measured one inch less inside the third Rubbermaid type bin (we’ll call this one bin 3) from the bottom up. Using this height as a guide, I drilled 3/16” holes approximately 3” apart making sure to stay below the four inch height of my storage containers. This will enable air to pass under bin 1 or bin 2 when placed on top of the four Tupperware style containers. In short, notice the Tupperware style containers are taller than the line of aeration holes inside bin 3.

Here I am suggesting some pre-dampened Sphagnum Peat Moss on your first worm bin. After your initial bin, you will want to use some of the existing bedding material from the previous bin as it will already be loaded with microbes however one must start somewhere! The purpose here is to create a comfort zone for your red wigglers. Many times people ask why their worms are trying to escape in their new setup. This will assist in keeping your worms happy while they adjust to their new surroundings!

You will only do this in bin 1. Simply place bin 2 aside for now as I will explain later.

Prior to dampening the Sphagnum Peat, add one tablespoon of agricultural lime, ash or eggshells and mix thoroughly as it is much easier dry than when dampened. Allow your damp peat to sit overnight to ensure it does not dry out since the peat acts like a slow absorbent sponge. If needed add additional moisture…

Dampen some shredded newspaper and or cardboard and place on top.

Once the bedding is set, begin to add your food scraps to one corner of the worm composting bin by digging out a small area, placing your food scraps and covering with peat. By covering you will help to eliminate odors as well as some unwelcome pests!

If top feeding with a product such as Purina Worm Chow, simply sprinkle a small amount on the surface area.

Now release your worms right on top and leave the top off and keep your worm compost bin in a room with a light on until the worms work down into the newspaper and cardboard. Place the lid on the top bin and you have now setup your worm farm!

Once your food and bedding has been composted by the worms, usually three to four months, you are ready to setup bin 2 as you did with worm bin 1 with the exception of replacing the Sphagnum Peat with a little of your existing worm bedding material (from bin 1… use enough to make 1″ to 2″ thick bedding). Once completed, lift the top off worm bin 1 and place bin 2 on top. Now place the lid on worm bin 2. Allow to sit for 3 to 4 weeks giving enough time for most of your worms to migrate upwards into bin 2.

Now remove bin 1 and 2. replace bin 2 back on top of your four Tupperware type containers and place lid on top.

You are now ready to harvest the vermicompost from bin 1 to use on your plants!

Repeat this process on a continuous basis.

Bruce

It was not until the earlier part of the 1900’s that composting began to evolve.

Today, tens of thousands of regular folks are taking part in composting via a tumbler or compost pile they manually turn periodically utilizing aerobic microbes to assist in the breakdown of organic matter.

The one area many people are unaware of is that by introducing red worms and even some nightcrawlers better known as worm composting or vermicomposting, can assist and be even more beneficial than traditional composting.

First, rather than having to turn the pile, the red worms are constantly eating organic matter moving through the pile. This aids in the aeration of the system which can save you time and your back!

Secondly red worms can speed the process of breaking down your compost pile allowing you to benefit faster from your (or should I say your worms) efforts.

Lastly, without getting all scientific here, worms have another benefit when they produce worm castings also known as worm poop and vermicast. The worm castings contain additional beneficial bacteria which are in the worm’s digestive system. Even though there is little known to how exactly worm castings work, test have shown that plants that are introduced to soil containing worm castings grow faster, produce more fruit, vegetables and flowers as well are less susceptible to soil born diseases.

One item that stands out with the addition of worm castings is the superior root growth over those without. This may even help to explain some of the results from the tests performed on plants using worm castings in the soil mix since a healthier root system usually means a healthier plant.

Now there are over 2,200 species known to man so how does one select the right worm for the job?

There are four basic worms that can be used depending mostly on your local climate conditions. One of the most popular known are the red wigglers. It is a smaller worm which can tolerate cooler temperatures as low as about 50 degrees and fair alright in warmer temperature upwards of 90 degrees or so Fahrenheit. When I discuss temperatures I am not referring to the ambient temperature but rather the temperatures within the compost pile itself.

Another worm would be the European nightcrawlers which are not really a nightcrawler… more on this topic can be found here (opens in a new window). This worm can tolerate the cooler temperatures of around mid forties however does not fare well above 85 degrees and extreme humidity. This worm is also referred to as a trout worm and leaf worm.

Alabama Jumpers are probably one of the most versatile worms as it originated in the tropics of some Asian countries and can be found as far north as northern New England. Alabama Jumpers actually fall under the earthworm category since they can burrow well beneath the surface which also helps aerate the soil around plants deeper than most other worms. This worm can tolerate very warm conditions and will become sluggish in the mid fifties. Now one unique trait of some earthworms is to be able to survive very low temperatures by basically burrowing down beneath the surface and going into a process similar to hibernation. To read more on this worm, visit the Alabama Jumpers Blog.

For very warm climates year round African nightcrawlers will do the trick. Yes, this worm originated in Africa and can tolerate up to 110 degrees in the shade as long as it has circulating air. If temperatures within the compost pile fall below 60 degrees the worms will begin to die off.

One thing to keep in mind, should temperatures fall to cool and kill off the worms, if they have laid cocoons (worm eggs) they will hatch come the spring even if they freeze.

Bruce

The first thing we need to do is go back to the scientific names for each to get a better understanding.

Red Wigglers – Eisenia foetida

European nightcrawlers – Eisenia hortensis

You may have noticed that the first part of the scientific names for each is the same. The word Eisenia which refers to an earthworm genus was named after an American zoologist, Gustav A. Eisen who had assorted variations to his name.

So in fact they are of the same family tree!

Both the European nightcrawler and red wiggler originated from Europe with the red wiggler making an earlier appearance here in the United States.

Another interesting fact is that both worms, even though the red wiggler is also known as the tiger worm, have the same striped tiger like rings encircling the length of their bodies. They do differ in size as the European nightcrawler grows larger especially in thickness.

Just to explain a little more about the scientific name of each the word foetida is derived from the words foetid and fetid which are defined as; foul, foul-smelling, funky, noisome having an offensive odor; stinking. The red wiggler was named such as rough handling of this worm causes it to excrete a foul smelling liquid.

The word hortensis means belonging to a hottus, or garden hence why the word hortensis is used in the names of a number of plants.

Both worms can be used for worm composting as well as a variety of others which I will explain in more depth in another post.

Bruce

You can read the original article which includes directions on building this flow through worm bin.

Enjoy the video below.

Bruce

The result was that the red wigglers avoided the computer paper side of the bin like the black plague. I decided to fool around with this experiment further by taking bunches of the shredded computer paper and moving it to where the worms has settled in comfortably within the worm bin. This actually chased the worms away from these areas to other areas of the worm bin.

Unlike years ago when households relied mainly on well water, today most homes depend on local municipalities and utility companies for their drinking eater. It is suppose to be better water which could be correct due to contamination of thousands of wells across the country.

In order to be sure that our tap water is free of any unwanted bacteria, the water treatment companies add chloride to our drinking water.

This is when it hit me when a number of people have had problems with worms trying to escape and they state their pH, moisture and temperature levels are all correct. There was a common denominator here; they all used tap water straight from the faucet.

The tap water can actually have more chloride than the residue left behind during production of computer paper.

So how does one resolve this issue? It is actually pretty simple and does not cost anything.

First I have seen where some people state that you simply aerate the water to remove chlorine. This will NOT work!

Anyone with a pool can relate to the consumption rate of chlorine on sunny days compared to overcast days. This is because the chlorine is broken down under the influence of the UV radiation in sunlight.

One of the simplest ways to remove chlorine from your tap water for your worm bin and garden areas using worm castings since they too consist of bacteria and fungi is to set a bucket of water out in direct sunlight for a day or two.

Another way to obtain chlorine free water is to collect rain water. One problem with rain water can be the impurities within the air that are washed out when it first begins to rain. These impurities can be harmful to your worms especially if you live near a factory for example putting out a lot of smoke or other atmospheric pollutants.

Another way to obtain chlorine free water is to purchase a gallon jug of natural spring water. Just be sure they have not added chlorides to help preserve the shelf life. For the average worm bin, a one dollar jug of water can go a long way!

A last note, if you are trying to produce the best possible worm castings, the chlorides will kill off a majority of the beneficial microbes you want. When watering plants using the worm castings, always use chloride free water otherwise you are defeating the purpose.

Good Luck in Your Worm Composting & Gardening Adventure…

Bruce Galle

For example, if your worm bin internal temperature is at 60 degrees Fahrenheit your worms will be less active, hence eating less food. This is also a reason I do not recommend refrigerating red wiggler worms, African nightcrawlers, European nightcrawlers or Alabama Jumpers. As they become less active and eat less they begin to get thinner and leaner, which is not what fishermen and women want.

Moisture and pH levels will also affect your worms and how much they will eat.

Red wigglers can eat half their body weight per day in decomposed food scraps, shredded paper products… under the correct conditions. So one pound of red wiggler composting worms can eat half a pound of food a day under ideal conditions in a homeowner style worm bin. In a larger style bin, 32 square foot continuous flow system for instance, under ideal conditions; red wigglers have been known to consume more food per day.

Now your African nightcrawlers and Alabama Jumpers are probably your most ferocious eaters. The ones on our farm indoors are fed daily under ideal conditions. Now I do not feed these guys food scraps but have shifted to Purina Worm Chow as their main diet. I do not have to run out constantly to pick up scraps and manure from local vendors some of which is smells pretty bad. African nightcrawlers are not as big a composting worm as the red wiggler on food scraps; however are excellent manure worm. I do not recommend chicken manure, however rabbit manure is superb as it does not require the process of heating. Horse or cow manure is also excellent however be sure the manure has been heated prior and that the animals have not been on de-wormer.

Now grain mix differs from food scraps as you do not want to feed your worms ½ a pound of Worm Chow per one pound of worms. You simply sprinkle on the surface area and do not mix in or the bin will become sour and begin to kill off your worms. Not only do the African nightcrawlers devour the chow, but damp shredded newspaper which we keep on the surface area and replace as needed. This ends up turning into the dark, rich worm castings known as “Black Gold”.

European nightcrawlers one of the favorite worms by those that fish, are also another good manure worm and are not as great on food scraps as the red wiggler. They also do not have the ferocious appetite as the African nightcrawler. I feed them with the grain mix by Purina, however anywhere from once every day or two while maintaining less feed in each bin compared to the African nightcrawler. The European nightcrawler bin is probably the easiest to sour by adding too much food. Do not expect these worms to eat as much, however they are extremely prolific and do produce a nice worm castings.

This should give you a good basis as where to begin feeding your worms, however keep in mind the conditions of your worm bin due play a large role in how much to feed your worms.

I have also just started The Worm Expert, red worm discussion forum and would like to invite you to become a member. Yes it is Free! (link opens in new window)

Thanks and enjoy the video.

Bruce Galle
The Worm Expert

Now there are more extravagant formulas, one which will be available online in the near future, however if you are anxious to try something the following will prove beneficial.

First, I feed my worms what my mother fed me that she claims made me so tall, greens! I do mix them up and limit starches such as bread and potatoes. I also refrain from using tomatoes and other high acidic fruits and vegetables.

I realize other sites will tell you that worms love coffee grinds, and they do, however if you add too much your bin will end up becoming acidic. Just as most of us were told growing up, anything is good in moderation.

For my trophy worms I use for fishing, I actually use a blender to liquefy the ingredients. Afterwards I mix in a little spent coffee grinds as well as peat moss to thicken the mixture. Now don’t go making it like a thick mud but rather just enough to keep the liquid from running off or ponding in your mix. Remember to allow it to sit in your garage or outside covered up for about 24 hours as the peat moss will continue to draw up the moisture.

Now one thing I do for the trophy worms is to freeze my mix as this modifies the molecular structure enabling the mix to break down even faster for quick consumption by the worms when I do feed them. Just be sure to thaw it out and warm up to room temperature before adding to your bin.

The Simplest Advanced Grain Formula Mix You Can Make:

As with any grain mix, sprinkle on top and even mist with some water. I personally leave my fishing worm bins uncovered; hence I place some moist shredded newspaper over my grain. Be consistent on feeding the grain as needed whether once a day or once every couple days.

The recipe:

2 Cups Oatmeal

1 Cup Cornmeal

1 Dozen Egg Shells

Many websites state you need to cook your eggs with the shells in order to use in your worm bin. I have never had an issue by rinsing cracked egg shells than have not been cooked with warm water thoroughly. Allow them to dry out well.

Add the egg shells to you blender and pulverize them to a powdery mix. Slowly add your other ingredients. You may need to shake the blender or rattle it back and forth as this is a dry mixture in order to continue mixing and breaking down to a powdery mix.

There are other formulas which will enable faster growth, without hormone shots which I will introduce in a couple weeks.

For now enjoy the site and sign up for the free worm composting newsletter if you have not already done so as well as the Organic Worm Farm Affiliate Program!

Bruce

Is any type of shredded paper ok?  Everyone says shredded newspaper and never mentions shredded paper such as what would come out of an office shredder.

Thanks for your patience.   Joyce

Joyce, earthworms you are digging up in your yard live in the soil. The red wigglers will not survive in soil as they are strictly a composting worm, eating decaying organic products. In short, yes either let the earthworms go or try placing some decomposed material if you have some, leaves, shredded paper, cardboard… in a pile and let them go.

As for the type of paper to use for your red wigglers I highly recommend you stick to shredded newspaper, brown, non waxed cardboard…

I tried using some office paper which I had shredded and placed on one side of a worm bin. The worms did not care for it and actually stayed away from it. My guess is that it was probably bleached paper, which much of your white paper is in order to get the brilliant white color. Bleach and worms do not mix!

If you wish to test some paper, you can always place a little in a corner of your bin to see how the worms will react. In fact I do this with new foods and grain mixes I come up with prior to utilizing throughout our bins.

I will be shipping your worms out Monday, July 13, 2009… Thanks for the order and let us know how you make out

Bruce

P.S. Check out our all new Red Worm Online Store!

First the African nightcrawler is probably one of the most heat tolerant worms around. They like temperatures around 75 – 80 degrees Fahrenheit. These are also a very large worm with mature adults reaching 6 – 8 inches in length.

African Nightcrawlers are definitely the super red worm for fishing, especially in the hot summer months when water temperatures peak, hence killing off other worms much quicker.

One area that is overlooked when it comes to the African nightcrawler is the fact that it eats more food than other red worms, including red wigglers and European nightcrawlers.

I have seen numerous sites state that red wrigglers are the best composting worm.

Since many people do not raise African nightcrawlers, perhaps they are just repeating what they have heard online posted by others; which in reality is the way the Internet works sadly. One person states something and others basically plagiarize what they read

Being I have raised these super red worms for a while along with red wigglers and European nightcrawlers, I can tell you from personal experience there is no comparison between the African nightcrawler and red wiggler. The African nightcrawler wins hands down.

Below is a picture of a new African nightcrawler bin I setup just three weeks ago.

I cleared to the bottom of the bin, only to expose 3″ of mostly worm castings, not vermiculture. My last bin was setup only for a month and a half and after screening yielded a full 5 gallon bucket of worm castings. Keep in mind this is a 30 gallon bin whereas most people use an 18 gallon bin.

As another comparison, I did the best I could as the nightcrawlers were camera shy

The African nightcrawler just stretched all the way out and sat there while the European nightcrawler wanted to curl up.

The photo below is of a 4″ or so European nightcrawler and as you can see the African easily surpasses this by about twice the length, although he looks lean from being stretched out on a paper plate .

Here is a snap shot of an African nightcrawler. To give some comparison, I used to play basketball and easily could palm the ball

In conclusion, if you are looking for a heat tolerant red worm which in my experience, by far the best composting worm all in one, try setting up an African nightcrawler worm bin.

In order to make this easy and cost effective, I am offering a ¼ lb starter package shipped priority mail. Click here for more information on how to obtain these super red worms!

Happy Worming,

Bruce Galle