The size of the bin would depend on what you or another individual wish to accomplish. For someone just wishing to throw some scraps into a bin or raise some worms for themselves to fish with, a smaller Rubbermaid bin setup would be fine. Someone deciding to go crazy such as myself would need larger bins. Now I do use smaller bins as well for trial and error as well as holding bins for larger worms such as African nightcrawlers of size ready to be sold.

It would also depend on what other needs one might have. If you are looking to generate compost for your garden on a continuous basis, then a continuous feed would be a great way to go. A word of caution is this takes time, usually about three months before you can begin to obtain vermicompost as well works a bit differently than a Rubbermaid worm bin. You need to find your way by applying even layers and how much of different materials in each layer. Once you get it going and become accustommed to it, it becomes easy as well as can produce quite a bit of vermicompost weekly depending on size, pounds of worms…

I do like the continuous feed flow through system however recommend starting small scale to test it out. Once you get it down, build a larger one.

Bruce

I started with Rubbermaid along time ago and still experiment with some, including the 4 drawer system which I have two up and running with different worms. After all I have to test them before I recommend them

I also use some larger bins about 80 gallons as well as custom made wood bins to continuous feed models I have built.

Bruce

First off I was not familiar with ECOLOGY TECHNOLOGY so I had a look at their website.

First thing I noticed is the size is 4’ X 8’ and trying to judge the height as I could not find the dimensions on this, however based on the photo, looks very shallow. For a larger system such as this I would recommend a depth of a minimum of 2.5 feet.

As for the venting issue, I would recommend cleaning the hole thoroughly where the vent pops in and try using some liquid nail for adhesion. Allow to thoroughly dry as the fumes could harm your worms.

The fiberglass should be painted with an acrylic water based exterior primer and eggshell or satin finish coat of paint. It should NOT have an alkyd, oil base or any industrial finishes. A metallic shovel will scratch through many finishes; however you could try a plastic ice or coal shovel to help prevent tearing up the finish as much.

As the worms work themselves up since this appears to be a shallow system, you would need to replace the bedding more frequently. Once you notice a majority of the material has been converted to worm castings, you should screen the material and replace with fresh bedding. This will enable the worms to continue on with their business.

As for the heating system, I can only say I get weary of any electrical heating systems where a pad or electrical wires can come in contact with the bedding. If the bedding becomes dry enough, which will usually happen in areas throughout a larger bin, a fire could break out. In the past there have been a number of worm farms which have burnt down due to the heating systems. This is why I posted an earlier article on a water heater system which will not be as effective outside as it would be in a garage or basement as it is limited.

Once fiberglass has cured, there should not be any release of chemicals. On the other hand, if the bin is getting scratched up you could be releasing small fragments of fiberglass into the bedding when you mix it. As much as the fiberglass irritates us when you have contact with exposed skin, I would imagine this would kill off worms. Again, I would go with plastic tools in a fiberglass bin as to minimize scratching.

On another note, I notice the website makes mention of leachate and worm tea in the same sentence, making it appear that these are the same thing. In reality, leachate is NOT worm tea, but a runoff of excess liquids which many times are full of anaerobic microbes which can be harmful and even detrimental to your plants. Worm tea is a process by which one aerates worm castings in water and supplies a food source for aerobic microbes to feed and flourish exponentially. Worm tea is beneficial to your plants!

Anytime you come across a worm bin advertising the collection of the liquid runoff, I highly recommend you avoid. Any professional worm farmer will tell you that their worm bins, no matter the size, do not have liquid runoff as this would defeat the purpose of having aerobic microbe material! If you have runoff, your worm bin is to wet!

Overall from what the website has to offer I am not impressed with their system nor the price tag associated with it. You can buy plans for a professional continuous flow worm bin and build it for approximately $500.00 which does not require fiberglass with a life expectancy of 8 to 10 years thus far and still going strong!

Bruce Galle

joe